Metal Roof vs Shingles Cost: Upfront, Lifetime & Insurance (2026)

Is it cheaper to put a metal roof or shingles on your house? Up front, shingles win by a wide margin — and over the life of the house, metal usually wins it back. That one-sentence answer hides the details that actually decide the question for a Lake County homeowner: how long you plan to stay, how many shingle replacements metal avoids, and what insurance and maintenance do to the totals. This comparison works through all three, with typical ranges throughout and no exact-price promises: the final price for your home is set after an on-site inspection. For the calculator behind the numbers, use our metal roof cost calculator and our metal roof cost per square foot guide.

Upfront Cost: Shingles Are Cheaper, By a Lot

There is no honest way to soften this: a metal roof costs roughly twice as much as an asphalt shingle roof on day one. Asphalt shingles typically install at $4 to $8 per square foot, while metal installs at $6 to $22 per square foot depending on profile. On a 2,000 square foot roof surface, that is roughly $8,000 to $16,000 for shingles against $12,000 to $44,000 for metal — and the standing seam end of the metal range is where most residential metal quotes land. If the budget only stretches to one roof and the plan is to sell within a few years, shingles are the rational choice. Metal’s case is built on what happens over the decades after installation, not on the first invoice.

	Asphalt shingles	Metal roofing
Typical installed cost (per sq ft)	$4 to $8	$6 to $22
Typical lifespan	20 to 30 years	40 to 70 years
2,000 sq ft roof (installed)	$8,000 to $16,000	$12,000 to $44,000
Replacements over 60 years	2 to 3	0 to 1

Lifetime Cost: Where Metal Catches Up

Over 60 years — a realistic horizon for a house you plan to keep — an asphalt roof is typically replaced two or three times, while a metal roof is typically replaced once at most, and often never. Two shingle replacements at today’s prices already approach the cost of one standing seam roof, before counting the disruption, disposal, and re-flashing each replacement involves. Add maintenance: shingles lose granules, crack, and need periodic repairs, especially after Lake County wind and hail events, while metal’s maintenance is mostly fastener checks, sealant touch-ups, and keeping valleys clear. Metal does not automatically win the lifetime math on every house — a homeowner who will move in five years will never collect the payback — but for a long-term home, the lifetime totals are much closer than the upfront prices suggest, and often favor metal.

Underlayment: Yes, Metal Roofs Need It

One of the most common questions about metal roofing is whether it needs underlayment at all, since the panels themselves shed water. The answer is yes, always. A high-temperature synthetic underlayment sits beneath the panels as the secondary water barrier: if wind drives rain under a seam, or a panel is damaged, the underlayment is what keeps water off the deck. It also protects the deck during installation and handles the higher temperatures metal roofs reach in summer sun. The same logic applies to shingles, which also sit on underlayment — the difference is the type, not the need. Any metal bid that omits underlayment is not a complete roof, and any comparison that leaves it out of one side is rigged.

Insurance: Will a Metal Roof Lower Your Premium?

Sometimes, but never count on a specific discount before asking your insurer. Metal roofs carry the highest fire rating of common roofing materials, resist hail damage better than shingles in many storm classes, and shed snow and rain effectively — all of which insurers like. Some carriers offer discounts for impact-rated metal roofing, and some do not; the discount, where it exists, is usually modest and varies by carrier, policy, and location. The honest way to handle it: get the metal roof for its lifespan and durability, then ask your insurer what the new roof changes, with the roof’s specifications in hand. Do not let a promised insurance saving decide the purchase — let it be a bonus if it arrives. For the same reason, be skeptical of any contractor who quotes a specific premium reduction: that number belongs to your insurer, not to the roofer.

The Biggest Problem With Metal Roofs

Ask roofers for the biggest problem with metal roofs and the honest answers cluster in three places. First, cost: metal is expensive up front, and that alone rules it out for many budgets. Second, noise: rain and hail are louder on metal than on shingles, though proper underlayment, insulation, and attic space reduce the difference to a level most homeowners stop noticing. Third, denting and oil-canning: thinner panels can dent under large hail and show wavy distortions in flat areas, which is why panel thickness and profile choice matter more than the brand name. None of these are deal-breakers on their own, but together they explain why shingles still cover most Lake County roofs: cheaper, quieter, familiar — and replaced more often. For the standing seam premium in detail, see our standing seam metal roof cost guide, and for panel math, our how many metal roof panels do I need guide and the roofing calculators hub.

Ready for a number? Run your roof through our calculator for an itemized estimate.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it cheaper to put a metal roof or shingles?

Up front, shingles are cheaper by a wide margin: asphalt shingles typically install at $4 to $8 per square foot, while metal installs at $6 to $22 per square foot depending on profile. Over the life of the house, metal often catches up, because a shingle roof is typically replaced two or three times over 60 years while a metal roof is typically replaced once at most. If you plan to sell within a few years, shingles are the rational choice; for a long-term home, the lifetime totals are much closer.

How long does a metal roof last compared to shingles?

A properly installed metal roof typically lasts 40 to 70 years, while asphalt shingles typically last 20 to 30 years. In Illinois, metal’s advantage comes from hidden fasteners on standing seam profiles, resistance to freeze-thaw damage, and the way its smooth surface sheds snow and rain. Correct underlayment, flashing, and snow-guard detailing matter as much as the panels themselves.

Do metal roofs need underlayment?

Yes, always. A high-temperature synthetic underlayment sits beneath metal panels as the secondary water barrier if wind drives rain under a seam or a panel is damaged, and it protects the deck during installation. Metal roofs run hotter in summer sun than asphalt roofs, which is why the high-temperature rating matters. Any metal bid that omits underlayment is not a complete roof.

Does a metal roof lower home insurance?

Sometimes, but never count on a specific discount before asking your insurer. Metal roofs carry the highest fire rating of common roofing materials and resist hail damage well, and some carriers offer discounts for impact-rated metal roofing. The discount, where it exists, is usually modest and varies by carrier, policy, and location — treat it as a bonus, not as the reason to buy the roof.

What is the biggest problem with metal roofs?

The three most common problems are cost, noise, and denting. Metal costs roughly twice as much as shingles up front; rain and hail are louder on metal than on shingles, though underlayment and insulation reduce the difference; and thinner panels can dent under large hail and show wavy oil-canning in flat areas. Panel thickness and profile choice matter more than brand name for avoiding the denting problem.